Let's all laugh at the tall, goofy wazungu!

As of late, I have had the opportunity to explore the city a little more. Last weekend we went to the beach, went dancing at one of the clubs, and went out for dinner at some local places just a Dala Dala ride away. So far I think the city is incredibly interesting. It seems to never sleep. No matter the time of night small vendors continue to sell their wares by candlelight. And at Mango Garden, the night club we went dancing at (great live music!), the party was just getting started when we left at 2:30 am! The next day a couple guys from our group were featured in the local gossip tabloid with the headline (an attempted translation from Kiswahili) “Look what our cameras caught at Mango Garden, the crazy white people dancing! We wazungu (white people) have received a bit of heckling, but nothing that can’t be rubbed off with a little humor. I have witnessed this on several occasions, many of them happening while running on the University’s track. On one such run, from the start, a group of secondary school girls began pointing and laughing at me. Some of them even began running along-side me laughing and giggling the entire way, despite my attempts to converse with them in Kiswahili and English. Perhaps they thought I was simply too funny looking to respond any other way? I quickly became distracted by a nearby soccer match so I quit running, but I must say after being laughed at so much I was thankful for an excuse to stop early. I am still curious why the huge, awkward wazungu is so funny…(besides the obvious). The day prior some other girls were laughing at me from the other side of the bleachers, making fun of my poor balancing ability by imitating me falling and screaming…I’m not sure how to feel about it, so I just laugh haha!

As I said, I quit running because just next to the track a fierce soccer match was being played between two vocational schools in Dar (VETA was one of the names I picked up from the cheers). Not only was the skill level extraordinary (and boy, were they fast!) but the celebrations were more than mighty. I found out later that the game was the final match of the season, so the title was at stake (no wonder such intensity from the players and fans). Many students were gathered around the pitch, many of them still in uniform, occasionally cheering (which increased at every goal opportunity) but mostly just enjoying hanging out with friends and watching their peers charge towards the net. Maybe it was because of their apparent casual demeanor throughout most of the match that made me so surprised when VETA scored. Every last one of the supporters for the yellow-clad team passionately charged the field lifting the lucky boy who scored first for his school high to the clouds. A parade of fans pranced around the field chanting battle cries of encouragement in Kiswahili. Just as this parade had finished its lap around the field, the opposing team bounced back with a strike from outside. The other side of the pitch erupted with elation, charging at their own peers, congratulating the striker as if a god. Another brigade quickly paraded around the field to taunt the sorrowed VETA players. While I watched the exasperated players finish the second half, I met a delightful man named Njilu. He had wandered over, noticing me as a strangely dressed wazungu that stuck out like a sore thumb amongst the usual crowd. I attempted to converse with him in Kiswahili for a bit (after only having a week of classes, I was only able to introduce myself tell him “it is a pleasure to meet you“, and ask him how he is) before switching to English. He told me of all of the things he wished to do in the world. In particular he told me of his artistic passions and he wished there was more time in the day to do all he wishes to do. Our conversation was delightful, he taught me a few more words (mpira=soccer) and we talked more about what I was doing in Tanzania. He was very nice, like many people here. I was curious by his ambitiousness, however. Most Tanzanians seem to be very relaxed without much of a concern for time, but for him he seemed very adamant about accomplishing so much of what was important to him. Perhaps all Tanzanians are like this, they choose to care passionately and give respect to the things that matter most, but things such as time and money (although as capitalism and the nation’s economy grows, money is sadly becoming more important) are seen as less important. How neat! The soccer game ended in a draw but because it was the final, went in to penalty kicks. VETA won thanks to some epic foot saves by the keeper. In the end he was the one lifted to touch the skies by his cheering schoolmates. After the game the same group of girls that were teasing me sang for the crowd (they turned out to be choral singers) and VETA dancers took the field, all to celebrate the big win. It was pretty awesome to watch. By far the most enthusiastic soccer match I have ever seen in person.

On Saturday we went to Pugu Hills preserve, a forest preserve 25 kilometers south of Dar to hike and swim. We hiked through some very rural villages which was very interesting. The poverty there was shocking. Nonetheless the people were smiling at us, curious at why we were passing through. And the children really seemed to get a kick out of us! We passed a group of 4 toddlers who would not stop giggling (again I think we must look pretty funny to them for some reason). Not knowing how to response laughed back which only resulted in more laughter. Another group of children were so curious that they began following us, calling to us the only English words they knew (hello, thank you, I love you, goodbye). We tried to speak a little Kiswahili to them but when we would move towards them, they would run away as if afraid. It became a game of cat and mouse. Not knowing how to communicate further I said the only other phrase which I thought they might recognize, “nipe tano”, which means “give me five!” (followed by a pounding motion like how they do it in Kiswahili culture). They quickly responded with big grins and a series of air pounds. I did it several times because they appeared to like it so much. I then faked a sprint towards them and they all charged away briefly before realizing I hadn’t actually moved. They were some of the cutest children I had ever seen, wearing old and battered clothing. It didn’t matter, their smiling eyes still showed nothing but contentedness.

Things are finally starting to feel real, meaning I’m starting to understand the implications of being in Tanzania for a full semester. Going to class at the University and the long hours spent studying Kiswahili are making it feel a bit like school, but more so I continue to feel excitement at the little differences in culture that I find so interesting. What a different world it is here! Obviously, we are all the same in the biological sense. But looking through the cultural lens is absurd to see how our cultures vary, and I have only experienced two weeks of it! So far the biggest cultural difference is the difference in time: not only do Tanzanians count time in a completely different way but the relaxedness of their culture is reflected in their lifestyles, such as when they choose to show up for meetings…(late). Time is nowhere near as important here as it is in America. While some find it frustrating, I find it refreshing. It was a little hard to get used to at first, but I’m simply loving it now. At times while at Colorado College and back home, I feel very pressured for time. There, time is something I’m always taking into consideration and something that is constantly bringing stress upon me. Tanzanians on the other hand encourage a more relaxed lifestyle. And while I am still getting plenty of work done, this unique simplification of life has allowed me the ability to spontaneously change my plans, take the time to stop and get to know strangers (something that is common to the culture here), sleep more, and even show up late for gatherings (a talent I already had perfected before leaving the States). At times, I still find myself having to shut off my American clock, but once I do I enjoy the day so much more. Too bad my college won’t have adapted this more relaxed way of life upon my return!